On Skirts

Hello everyone!
Hot and humid mid-summer weather has arrived in Tokyo. In an attempt to cool down in the scorching weather, many Lolitas are probably opting to wear simple light tops and skirts rather than donning head-to-toe Lolita outfits. Although it may sound a little basic, for this lesson I would like to talk about the different types of skirts found in Lolita fashion.
For those of you who are taking your first steps on the road to Lolita-dom, knowing the basic styles and types of skirts will give you ideas on what to buy. Advanced Lolitas can use this lesson to reconsider the distinctive features of their favorite skirts, and deepen their knowledge of Lolita fashion further!

Types of Skirts

While there are many types of skirts in Lolita fashion, I will limit this lesson to talking about the most basic styles and shapes.

Gathered Skirt

The most standard type of skirt in Lolita fashion is the gathered skirt, with fabric that is scrunched together and "gathered" at the waist line. There two possible styles; those with a straight cut and gathered flared skirts that flare out at the hem. When worn with a pannier underneath, the adorable round shape of the skirt can be said to be an iconic look that represents Lolita fashion. In principle, the simple shape means they look great coordinated with any pretty top, hence gathered skirts are recommended for the Lolita beginner. There are also skirts with a similar design that have tucks around the waistline instead of gathering.

Tiered Skirt

These are skirts with two or more "tiers" separated by vertical seams. Broadly speaking, tiered skirts can be separated into either designs decorated with frills or flounces (wide frills), or skirts with gathering at the seams separating the tiers. Whatever the design, tiered skirts always add volume and provide plenty of flare at the hem even when worn on their own, so you can achieve a luxurious look. Coordinating a tiered skirt with a fitted or compact looking top will help make your outfit look more balanced.

Flared Skirt

Flared skirts are skirts that flare out from the waist towards the hemline. Compared to gathered skirts, the area around the hips is flat and smooth, giving you a clean and light looking silhouette. This is another type of skirt that goes well with a variety of different tops. If you wear a pannier underneath it, choose a flared pannier or a pannier without much volume, so that you won't ruin the beautiful shape of the skirt. With short flared skirts, be careful not to make the hem flare out too much.

Draped Skirt

Draped skirts are characterized by an overskirt that is drawn up with ribbons to make "drapes" over an underskirt. There are designs where drapes are created on the sides or ones where the back is draped in a bustle style, adding volume. The photograph shown here is of a dress instead of a skirt, but it is an excellent example as it is very decorative and exudes a luxurious elegance fit for an aristocratic lady. Those of you who usually go for the sweet ama-loli look may find such an elegant style a delightful alternative. Some designs require you to wear a separate underskirt together with the draped skirt.

Open Front/Back Skirt

These are skirts that are open at the front or back, revealing an underskirt beneath. The shape and look is similar to the draped skirt mentioned above. The standard design of the open skirt is a fairly flat overskirt with a heavily frilled underskirt beneath, which looks very luxurious. As for what to wear with it, a blouse may be more suitable than a casual top. Some open skirts come with the over and underskirt already attached, while others are sold separately.

Other than the types mentioned above, there are skirts that can be worn without a pannier which give you a more natural shape. For example, there is the pleated skirt, which you can wear in a school girl style or to complete a Punk style outfit. Then there is the feminine and sophisticated mermaid skirt with a hem that flares out from around the knees. Such styles are recommended for when you feel like you want to try something different.

Skirt Length

In Lolita fashion, skirts that come just above the knee are the standard, while shorter miniskirts and those just covering the knees are the second most common. Long skirts that reach your ankles are more prevalent in Gothic attire, and although there are some long length skirts available from classical and elegant Lolita lines, they are not often seen in Lolita fashion.
When choosing a length that is right for you, remember to check how well the skirt balances with your height and build. Generally speaking, short lengths give a cute impression while longer lengths look more composed and sophisticated. Skirts with designs that you think might be a little too sweet for you may still suit your style well if they are longer in length. However in Lolita fashion, I recommend you don't go for skirts that are longer than just below the knee, as anything longer will be more difficult to coordinate with the rest of your outfit (lengths that stop at your calves are not very flattering for your legs, either).
Even skirts that are intended to be knee length could be too short for taller Lolitas or too long for petite Lolitas. If your skirt seems too short, you can wear a longer petticoat or pannier of the same color as your skirt to make it appear longer (recently, wearing colorful slips or petticoats underneath a dress or long t-shirt has become popular in mainstream fashion, too). Undergarments with clean-cut hems will look natural peeking out from underneath your skirt. If your skirt is too long, wearing a pannier with plenty of volume will bring the hemline up a little.

The Waistline

Lastly, I would like to say a few words about the waistline. In mainstream fashion, hip-huggers that hang lower down on the body are popular, however in Lolita fashion, the skirt waistline is typically on your waist instead of on the hips. There are even designs with a high-waist finish, resembling a corset, which give you a classical look, and have the added advantage of pulling your waistline in for a streamlined silhouette.
Choosing whether to tuck your blouse into your skirt or not depends on the design of the garments and your own personal preferences. However, if you would like to make the most of your skirt waistline, you should tuck the blouse into your skirt. When wearing something over your blouse, choosing a short-length top, like a bolero, will show off any decorative ribbons on the back of your skirt.

So here ends your brief lesson on skirts. Even Lolitas who have their favorite type of skirt and always seem to buy similar designs should try a different style from time to time. You never know, you might find a shape that compliments your body shape perfectly, or gives you an opportunity to enjoy a completely different look. Farewell until next time.