On Panniers*

Konnichiwa everyone!
For this fifth lesson in Lolita, I shall look at the inner workings of the Lolita outfit, rather than the outer grandeur as we have done in previous lessons.
So what can be found hidden beneath a Lolita dress? Something that one cannot do without in order to create a distinctive feminine silhouette. It is the the most basic of basics when it comes to Lolita inner wear - yes, you've got it; the pannier.
The voluminous, round shape of the skirt is what symbolizes Lolita fashion - it is a shape that is reminiscent of every girl's dream outfit; the princess dress. You will find many Lolita items with a thick layer of tulle lace sewn on to the inside of a skirt, or dresses with a simple pannier lining. Such items are available precisely because the round silhouette of the skirt is an indispensable aspect of the Lolita look.
However, everyone has their own preferences and aesthetic ideals when it comes to panniers. Some might say, "Without a pannier, you are not a Lolita", while others prefer not to add too much volume to the skirt or might even leave the pannier out completely. I think it is best to have a look at available information about the pannier, in order to find your own style and to get an idea of how exactly to use this lovely item.

Material and Color

The materials for the pannier can be broadly divided into stiff materials such as tulle or nylon sheer, and soft material such as organdy or chiffon. Stiff material is ideal for holding up skirts made of heavy fabric, which are often seen during the winter season, while soft panniers are great for those who prefer a softer feel and are recommended for Lolita beginners.
The color variations are similar to what is available with the blouse, namely white, black or cream. You can choose a color that matches the skirts you most often wear, but if you are stuck on which color would be best for you, I would recommend white. Black and other colored panniers may show through light colored skirts, however white panniers are suitable for both light and dark colored garments.

Length and Shape

The length and shape of the skirts and dresses you most often wear can be used as guidelines when choosing a pannier. "5 cm shorter than the skirt" is the standard length of a pannier. If your pannier is too short in comparison to your skirt, it may look misshapen. Revealing a little of the pannier from beneath a skirt with a heavily decorated lacey hem can be charming too.
With regards to the shape, with heavy skirts adorned with plenty of gathering around the waist, choose an equally voluminous pannier to compliment it. On the other hand, skirts which are flat around the hips but flare out at the hem look best with A-line panniers or panniers with less volume. There are a wide range of shapes available, such as those with volume at the back in a bustle style or long designs for long skirts. For your first pannier purchase, why not choose a standard design, and slowly increase your inventory as the need arises?
There are also panniers that you can wear as a skirt on its own over a pair of leggings. However, this lesson concerns panniers as innerwear, so I will omit expanding on this topic this time.

The Volume

The volume of your skirt depends on your individual tastes, however standard, super sweet amalolis (amai = sweet in Japanese) put as much volume as possible under the skirt, while elegant and classical Lolitas keep the volume to a minimum.
It seems fans of big bouncy skirts are constantly on a quest to find the "biggest, puffiest pannier" With sweet Lolita items, a certain amount of volume definitely suits the look much better. If you feel that you don't have enough volume, or if you feel like you want to look super luxurious, wearing two or more panniers is an option. Petit Lolitas can benefit from wearing a pannier to shorten the length of a skirt.
If you are a bit reluctant about becoming too puffy, start with a pannier made of soft material or a design with less volume. More importantly, be careful not to over do it, as some Lolitas often do when they start to tire of the standard pannier volume and seek to make their skirts bigger and bigger (as with anything, too much of a good thing can end in a fashion disaster. Sometimes, less is more!).
Panniers are not necessary for items such as pleated skirts that have a straight shape. And if you ever feel that an item may look better without a pannier, just trust your instincts and wear it however you think it will look best. When you want to go for a casual style, omitting the pannier can give you a more natural look.

Be Stylish, but Be Considerate of Others

When coming out of the toilet, reshape your skirt immaculately. You don't want to walk out with your skirt hem tucked or riding up the pannier. And always remember to be courteous to others, especially in confined spaces. In some situations it is advisable to refrain from certain things, such as taking a seat on a bus or train where your skirt may overflow on to the seat next to you. In crowded places such as at concerts or at theme parks, wearing a pannier with a modest volume or not wearing one at all may be more reassuring and also safer.

Panniers Are Not For Life

With all panniers, it is an unfortunate fact that the more you use it, the more it loses its stiffness, and thus its volume. There are many tips exchanged between Lolitas on how to keep a pannier puffy and bouncy for as long as possible, and it seems the key is to minimize the pressure applied to the pannier at all times. For panniers made of material that creases easily, only fold it once (if you must) when storing. If your pannier has reached a state where it has deflated beyond repair, it is time to replace it with a new one. Perhaps you can use your older panniers for casual outfits that require less volume, or with another pannier to add extra volume.

Although panniers are left unseen, and usually hidden neatly underneath your skirt, this miracle item is the key to making the overall look work. So take time to choose one that is of high quality, and one that suits your individual style. Your pannier will add extra magic to your beautiful Lolita outfit. Until next time!

*In Japanese Lolita fashion, "Pannier" refers to an undergarment which is often called a "Petticoat" in English. In English, "Pannier" is a solid frame worn under a dress to hold up the skirt, while in Lolita fashion, it is a soft heavily layered underskirt made of lace and/or frills (sometimes lined with thin wires). In this article, the word "Pannier" is used in the Lolita sense, rather than the standard English sense.